Tag: skincare

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How to Deal with Those Stubborn Marks Left by Acne on Darker Skin

We can face it; acne is already enough of a pain. But for those with darker skin, that struggle begins once the blemishes leave. In most cases, they don’t vanish entirely; they sometimes leave behind dark marks that can take months or even years to fully fade. The formal medical name for these markings is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and it’s seen more frequently in those with darker skin tones.

What is PIH, and why does it occur?

Then why do these marks take longer to fade away, even for individuals blessed with melanin-rich skin? Well, it all boils down to how sensitive your skin is. In other words, when you get a pimple, it means that your skin is inflamed. In response, it prevents similar damage from happening (for a little while at least) by increasing the production of melanin, which is essentially the pigment that gives your skin its color.  People with darker skin have melanin-producing cells that are more active, meaning that they tend to have darker patches that last longer when inflammation occurs.

How PIH looks different on darker skin

PIH generally appears red or pink on lighter skin and usually fades sooner. On darker skin, though, those same marks will show up brown or purple to gray and turn into more internalized as well. These can last for much longer, especially if not treated well or are irritated further.

The problem with dermatology representation

The representation of skin color in dermatology has a big gap currently. This is because most medical resources — especially textbooks and training materials, and also skincare advertisements — show acne and pigmentation concerns on predominantly fair skin types, which is one of the reasons it remains an unmet need. And because of this, patients and doctors have less experience with how these disease processes look in brown skin. You may have never seen how it appears on deeper skin tones if you only experience red acne on pale skin. That could lead to real issues like not receiving the required care or attention.

What you can do about it

If you have dark skin, the good news is that PIH can be treated. 

By following a regular skin care routine, you can see dark spots fade back, and it helps minimize their appearance. Azelaic acid, niacinamide, or kojic acid are some of the key ingredients to look out for. And don’t forget sunscreen! While darker skin does not burn as easily, it can still be damaged by the sun, which only serves to exacerbate PIH. Also, be sure not to use harsh scrubs or over-exfoliate since it may aggravate the skin and make things worse. If possible, go to a dermatologist who knows how to treat PIH in the same skin color. They will tell you what is best for your skin type and will guide you to the best treatment to have.

Final thoughts

After all, acne marks on darker skin are completely normal and easily treatable. Where it is not okay, however, is when the absence of representation in skincare and dermatology gives way to feeling ignored if you have darker skin. Everyone deserves to be seen, acknowledged, and cared for. Your skin experiences count. This is your chance to have your say!

References

“Hyperpigmentation.” Cleveland Clinic, Cleveland Clinic, 7 Oct. 2021, my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/21885-hyperpigmentation.

Fisher, Jennifer. “Demystifying Hyperpigmentation: Causes, Types, and Effective Treatments.” Harvard Health Publishing, 11 Mar. 2024, www.health.harvard.edu/diseases-and-conditions/demystifying-hyperpigmentation-causes-types-and-effective-treatments.

Ludmann, Paula. “How to Fade Dark Spots in Darker Skin Tones.” American Academy of Dermatology, 10 Mar. 2025, www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-secrets/routine/fade-dark-spots.

Markiewicz, Ewa, et al. “Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation in Dark Skin: Molecular Mechanism and Skincare Implications.” Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, vol. 15, 25 Nov. 2022, pp. 2555–2565, Dove Medical Press, doi:10.2147/CCID.S385162. PubMed Central, PMC9709857.

Veazey, Karen. “What to Know about Hyperpigmentation on Dark Skin.” Medical News Today, 21 Sept. 2023, www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/hyperpigmentation-black-skin.

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Botox Explained: How a Neurotoxin Became a Beauty Staple

In 2022, over 9 million Botox injections were given worldwide, making it one of the most popular cosmetic treatments today. Known for its ability to reduce wrinkles and give skin a smoother, younger appearance, Botox is particularly popular among celebrities looking to maintain a youthful appearance. But what exactly is Botox, and how does it work?

What is Botox?

 Botulinum toxin, or Botox, is a neurotoxic protein derived from a bacteria known as bacterium Clostridium botulinum. Neurotoxic proteins are substances that disrupt the function of the nervous system. Botulinum toxin works by blocking the release of acetylcholine, a neurotransmitter that plays a critical role in muscle contraction, by interfering with the vesicles responsible for releasing acetylcholine. Located in neurons, vesicles are small sacs that store neurotransmitters, like acetylcholine. Botox targets and breaks down the proteins that help these vesicles release acetylcholine, preventing it from being released into the space between the nerve and the muscle.

This prevention of muscle contraction ultimately leads to reduced wrinkles, fine lines, improved skin texture, and overall a more youthful appearance.

While Botox is best known for its cosmetic benefits, it also provides several other medical benefits. This versatile procedure can also mitigate neck spasms and chronic migraines under the same mechanism. Additionally, Botox is effective in treating excessive sweating (hyperhidrosis). Not only is acetylcholine responsible for muscle contraction, but it also plays a key role in triggering sweat production in sweat glands. Botox can be injected in the affected areas, preventing them from producing excess sweat. Botox injections can also treat lazy eye by relaxing the overactive muscle in the eye—specifically, the extraocular muscle, which controls eye movement. 

Different muscles vary in size and strength, so they require varying amounts of Botox to effectively relax the target muscle. Botox injections are administered in units, with 1 unit being a standardized measure of biological potency.

Where is Botox injected?

Botox can be used wherever facial muscles are creating lines. Here are the most common injection sites:

Forehead – to relax those horizontal lines that show up when you raise your eyebrows. 10-30 units of Botox.

Between eyebrows (glabella) – to soften the vertical lines caused by frowning. 5-15 units of Botox on each side.

Outer corners of eyes (crow’s feet) – to soften the orbicularis oculi muscles at the outer corners of the eyes. 10-15 units of Botox per side.

Around the mouth – to reduce smile lines (nasalabial folds) by pulling the corners of the mouth down. 3-6 units of Botox on each side.

How long does Botox last?

Botox injections generally last 3 to 4 months, depending on the dosage and site of injection. In areas with more muscle activity, like around the eyes or mouth, the effects of Botox will wear off faster compared to areas with less movement, like the forehead.

Side effects of Botox

As we’ve learned, Botox prevents the release of acetylcholine and ultimately muscle contraction. After injection, the targeted muscle remains entirely inactive for the treatment’s duration—typically 3 to 4 months. This prolonged inactivity can cause muscle atrophy, meaning that the muscle will reduce in mass, size, and strength. Some studies have shown that if a patient continues to undergo Botox injections in the long term, their skin might experience increased susceptibility to sun damage, premature aging, and dehydration. Granted, the current research on the long-term effects of Botox remains inconclusive.

Takeaway:

Known for its effective ability to smooth wrinkles by temporarily paralyzing facial muscles, Botox continues to reign as one of the most popular cosmetic treatments. Beyond aesthetics, Botox also treats medical conditions like migraines, excessive sweating, and muscle spasms. However, while generally safe, long-term use may lead to muscle atrophy and potential skin changes. As with any procedure, it’s important to weigh the benefits against possible risks and consult a healthcare provider for personalized care.

Bibliography

“Botox.” MedlinePlus, U.S. National Library of Medicine, 2 Aug. 2023, https://medlineplus.gov/botox.html.

“Vesicle.” NCI Dictionary of Cancer Terms, National Cancer Institute, https://www.cancer.gov/publications/dictionaries/cancer-terms/def/vesicle.

“What Areas Can Be Treated with Botox?” Westlake Dermatology & Cosmetic Surgery, https://www.westlakedermatology.com/blog/what-areas-can-be-treated-with-botox/.

“The Long-Term Effects of Botox: What Research Says.” Your Laser Skin Care, https://www.yourlaserskincare.com/blog/the-long-term-effects-of-botox-what-research-says.

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Biochemical Markers of Psoriasis: What’s Happening Beneath the Skin?

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Often confused with atopic dermatitis, psoriasis is also an incurable chronic skin condition that is characterized by itchy/inflamed and scaly patches of skin. As psoriasis affects ~2% of the United States population, the demand for treatment continues to soar. Unfortunately, psoriasis is a complex autoimmune condition that entails various factors. In this post, we’ll learn about the causes of psoriasis, the role of the immune system in psoriasis, remedies, as well as how it differs from other inflammatory skin conditions like eczema.

What causes psoriasis?

The root causes of psoriasis start with genetics and environmental triggers. This combination is integral for psoriasis, with genetic predispositions endangering the host to an overreactive immune response, which can be provoked by an environmental trigger. Triggers include skin injuries, infections, stress, alcohol, and more.

What happens during a psoriasis flare-up?

Once triggered, the immune system begins to malfunction. Crucial immune cells known as t cells—responsible for fighting off pathogens—become overactive. They begin to mistakenly orchestrate an attack on skin cells, assuming them to be pathogens. First, T cells release cytokines (typically IL-17 and IL-23)—proteins that regulate immune responses and contribute to inflammation. These cytokines then stimulate the overproduction of keratinocytes (skin cells) to try to repair the damage. The basal layer of the epidermis (where keratinocytes are produced) then goes overdrive, resulting in rapid cell division. This manifests as flaky, inflamed, and itchy lesions of the skin of psoriasis. 

Here is a flowchart to help demonstrate the process:


Genetic predisposition and environmental triggers 

T cells become overactive

T cells release cytokines

 Cytokines stimulate keratinocyte overproduction

Visible symptoms of psoriasis (Scaly, itchy plaques)

Psoriasis vs. atopic dermatitis

Psoriasis and atopic dermatitis are both chronic skin conditions that manifest as flaky, inflamed, and itchy patches of skin. However, the difference between these two comes down to their underlying cause. As we’ve learned, psoriasis is an autoimmune condition that involves the immune system mistakenly attacking the body. In contrast, atopic dermatitis is an inflammatory condition involving a defective/hypersensitive skin barrier due to genetic mutation. Although psoriasis can also be triggered by environmental triggers, think of atopic dermatitis as being the direct, inflammatory response to a trigger. Psoriasis, on the other hand, happens because the immune system is already defective and attacking the body’s own skin cells, and outside triggers just make it worse.

Types of psoriasis

Psoriasis can take on several forms, depending on the types of cytokines involved. Accounting for 80-90% of psoriasis cases, plaque psoriasis is the most common form. Primary cytokines involved: IL-17 and IL-23. Manifests as raised, silver-colored, scaly patches of skin. Most commonly forms on the elbows and knees. Psoriasis can also take several other forms, affecting different parts of the body. These include: guttate psoriasis (torso, upper arms, and legs), pustular psoriasis (palms of hands or soles of feet), inverse psoriasis (skin folds), and many more.

Plaque psoriasis

Treatments:

Luckily, scientists have developed various treatment options for psoriasis that work by reducing inflammation and slowing the overproduction of skin cells. Treatments include topical therapies (creams and ointments), light therapy, and oral or injected medications. The best option for each patient depends on the severity of the condition, medical history, and lifestyle.

Conclusion:

Understanding the biochemistry and immunology behind psoriasis reveals the complexity of this abstract, chronic, autoimmune condition. Although there isn’t currently a direct cure for psoriasis, several treatments have been developed to mitigate symptoms, reduce inflammation, and prevent flare-ups. The more we understand the underlying cause of psoriasis, the closer we get to hopefully curing this chronic condition.

Bibliography

American Academy of Dermatology Association. “What Causes Psoriasis?” AAD, https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/psoriasis/what/causes. Accessed 13 Apr. 2025.

Rendon, Adriana, and Benjamin Schäkel. “Psoriasis Pathogenesis and Treatment.” International Journal of Molecular Sciences, vol. 19, no. 5, 2019, p. 1475, https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5751129/. Accessed 13 Apr. 2025.

National Institute of Arthritis and Musculoskeletal and Skin Diseases. “Psoriasis.” NIAMS, U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, https://www.niams.nih.gov/health-topics/psoriasis. Accessed 13 Apr. 2025.

“Psoriasis.” TeachMe Paediatrics, https://teachmepaediatrics.com/dermatology/dermatology/psoriasis/. Accessed 13 Apr. 2025.

Greb, Jennifer E., et al. “Psoriasis.” International Journal of Molecular Sciences, vol. 20, no. 10, 2019, p. 2558, https://www.mdpi.com/1422-0067/20/10/2558. Accessed 13 Apr. 2025.

Radiant Dermatology. “Psoriasis.” Radiant Dermatology & Skin Cancer Center, https://www.radiantdermtx.com/view-medical-dermatology/psoriasis. Accessed 13 Apr. 2025.

Thomas, Liji. “What Are T Cells?” News Medical, 27 Feb. 2019, https://www.news-medical.net/health/What-are-T-Cells.aspx. Accessed 13 Apr. 2025.

Di Meglio, Paola, et al. “The Role of APCs in Psoriasis Pathogenesis.” Frontiers in Immunology, vol. 6, 2015, https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4437803/. Accessed 13 Apr. 2025.

WebMD. “Cytokines and Psoriasis.” WebMD, https://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-and-treatments/psoriasis/cytokines-psoriasis. Accessed 13 Apr. 2025.

Parisi, Rosalind, et al. “Psoriasis Vulgaris: A Comprehensive Overview.” Dermatology and Therapy, vol. 10, no. 2, 2020, pp. 261–273, https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7122924/. Accessed 13 Apr. 2025.

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Laser Resurfacing vs. Pigmentation Lasers: Which Treatment Suits Your Skin?

Which is better? Erbium YAG Laser vs CO2 Laser | The Ferguson Clinic

Providing a diverse plethora of skin benefits, laser treatments have revolutionized dermatology and have skyrocketed in popularity, with roughly 4 million laser skin treatments being performed annually. This surge in demand can be attributed to their ability to effectively address a variety of skin concerns: acne scars, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and unwanted hair. Offering precision and long-lasting results, laser treatments work in a very fascinating and non-invasive manner.

The significance of collagen

Before exploring the various types of laser treatments for the skin, it’s essential to understand why they’re effective: they stimulate collagen production — a key factor in maintaining youthful, healthy skin. Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body and forms the structural framework of the skin. It interacts with other molecules like hyaluronic acid to provide firmness, elasticity, and hydration. As we age, natural collagen production declines, leading to wrinkles, sagging, and thinning skin. To combat this, laser treatments can be used to trigger fibroblasts to produce more collagen, consequently rebuilding smoother skin.

Collagen protein

Laser resurfacing:

One of the more popular laser treatments, laser resurfacing is a technique that uses ablative lasers, non-ablative lasers, or fractional lasers. Ablative lasers (eg: CO₂) cast a beam of light that destroys the protective keratin on the epidermis—the outer layer of the skin—and heats the underlying skin—dermis. Ablative lasers emit energy at a wavelength of around 10,600 nm. In response, the body stimulates collagen growth to regrow the targeted wound. Once fully healed, the treated area returns smoother—free of sun damage and wrinkles. Ablative lasers are the most effective/intense laser option, requiring longer recovery time while providing the most drastic results.

Types of ablative lasers

CO₂ and Er:YAG lasers are the most commonly used ablative lasers, each with distinct advantages and applications. CO₂ lasers, operating at a high wavelength of ~10,600 nm, penetrate deeply into the skin, making them highly effective for severe sun damage, deep wrinkles, acne scars, and skin tightening. In contrast, Er:YAG lasers, with a moderate wavelength of ~2940 nm, offer more precise and controlled resurfacing, making them ideal for treating mild to moderate wrinkles, fine lines, and sun damage while minimizing heat damage.

Non-ablative lasers

If you seek a more gentle procedure with a shorter recovery time, non-ablative lasers would be a more suitable option. Unlike ablative lasers that both vaporize the epidermis and heat the dermis, non-ablative lasers do not create a wound on the surface, only heating the dermis. Non-ablative lasers operate at a marginally lower wavelength, typically between 1320 nm – 1927 nm. This still stimulates collagen production, but more gradually/gently.

Both ablative and non-ablative lasers can alternatively be offered fractionally instead of full-field. Fractional ablative/non-ablative lasers create microscopic wounds on the skin, leaving the surrounding skin intact. It should be noted that this fractional approach maintains the same wavelength as its full-field counterpart, but the delivery of the laser energy is different. Fractional lasers allow for reduced downtime and faster healing. It still effectively stimulates collagen production, though the results tend to be more gradual compared to full-field treatments.


Pigmentation & spot removal lasers

Similarly to laser resurfacing, pigmentation lasers also target and treat sun spots and pigmentation; however, they are a targeted treatment specifically designed to break down melanin without affecting the surrounding skin. The significantly low wavelength of pigmentation lasers—between 532 nm and 1064 nm—enables pinpoint accuracy for melanin to more effectively absorb laser energy.  Unlike resurfacing lasers, which also improve skin texture, wrinkles, and scars, pigmentation lasers focus solely on degrading pigmentation, making them ideal for treating sunspots, freckles, melasma, and hyperpigmentation. It’s important to note that pigmentation lasers do not strongly stimulate collagen production, as they do not heat the dermis and trigger fibroblasts to produce new collagen.

Laser Pigmentation Removal in Portland, Oregon
Process of Laser Pigmentation Removal

Takeaway:

Ultimately, if your skin concern is solely moderate pigmentation and sun damage, pigmentation & spot removal lasers would be a better choice. These lasers operate at a low wavelength, ensuring minimal downtime, targeted melanin degradation, and reducing damage to surrounding tissue.  If you wish to also treat scarring/texture or severe sun damage, resurfacing lasers (ablative/non-ablative) would be more suitable, as their potency stimulates collagen production and promotes new and smoother skin.

Bibliography

Cambridge Laser Clinic. “Detailed Explanation of Pigment Laser Treatments.” Cambridge Laser Clinic, https://cambridgelaserclinic.com/laser-treatments/pigment/detailed-explanation/#:~:text=Several%20different%20laser%20wavelengths%20can,(Nd%20Yag%201064nm%20laser). Accessed 2024.

“Laser Resurfacing.” Mayo Clinic, https://www.mayoclinic.org/tests-procedures/laser-resurfacing/about/pac-20385114#:~:text=Results%20after%20nonablative%20laser%20resurfacing,treatments%20to%20get%20noticeable%20results. Accessed 2024.

“Laser Light Energy-Based Procedures in the U.S. by Type.” Statista, https://www.statista.com/statistics/319224/distribution-of-laser-light-energy-based-procedures-in-the-us-by-type/. Accessed 2024.

RCSB Protein Data Bank. “Collagen Structure.” Protein Data Bank, https://pdb101.rcsb.org/motm/4. Accessed 2024.

“Lasers in Dermatology and Medicine.” National Center for Biotechnology Information, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK557474/. Accessed 2024.

Rokhsar, C. K., and Fitzpatrick, R. E. “The Treatment of Wrinkles and Skin Laxity Using a Fractional Ablative CO₂ Laser: A Retrospective Study.” National Center for Biotechnology Information, https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3580982/. Accessed 2024.

The Ferguson Clinic. “Which Is Better? Erbium YAG Laser vs. CO₂ Laser.” The Ferguson Clinic, https://www.thefergusonclinic.com/which-is-better-erbium-yag-laser-vs-co2-laser/. Accessed 2024.

Full Potential Men. “Laser Pigmentation Removal.” Full Potential Men, https://www.fullpotentialmen.com/laser-pigmentation-removal/. Accessed 2024.

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Tyrosinase Inhibitors vs. Melanogenesis Inhibitors: Which is Better for Treating Pigmentation?

What is pigmentation? - CellDerma

What causes pigmentation?

Responsible for providing color to our skin, hair, and eyes, melanin is an essential, naturally produced pigment that our body–and most organisms— is constantly producing. Our natural skin tone is largely accredited to our genetically determined melanin production rate, which vastly varies across ethnicities. Inhabitants of regions with more intense UV radiation have evolved to develop genetic mutations that increase their melanin production and thus have darker skin tones, whereas people in lower UV regions have lighter skin tones. The process of melanin production—otherwise known as melanogenesis—entails the conversion of tyrosinase—a natural enzyme—into melanin. 

Simplified pathways of tyrosine-derived melanin synthesis showing... | Download Scientific Diagram
Process of Melanin Synthesis
(ResearchGate)

How does UV radiation influence melanin production?

As a defense mechanism against UV radiation, the skin initiates melanogenesis. Melanin then transfers to keratinocytes—the cell that produces keratin, an essential protein in the epidermis—where the melanin internally absorbs UV rays and reduces DNA damage. However, if the skin receives excessive exposure to UV radiation—without sun protection—the melanin will eventually fail to provide skin protection, leading to sun damage and, soon enough, hyperpigmentation. Although tyrosinase production is also largely influenced by genetics and exposure to UV radiation, tyrosinase, and melanin production can be reduced by tyrosinase inhibitors.

What are tyrosinase inhibitors?

Whether found synthetically in ingredients like azelaic acid or naturally in ingredients like aloe vera, tyrosinase inhibitors are widely used to even out skin tone by blocking tyrosinase activity during catalytic reaction, thereby reducing melanin production and, in some cases, breaking down and degrading pre-existing melanin. Their versatility makes them a key component in the treatment of hyperpigmentation, melasma, and age spots. While different tyrosinase inhibitors function differently, they ultimately yield the same results—reduced melanin synthesis and a more even complexion. Here are some examples of tyrosinase inhibitors with varying potency.

Niacinamide: Although not technically a tyrosinase inhibitor, niacinamide Inhibits melanosome transfer—the process of turning melanin into a visible pigment. Niacinamide does not alter tyrosinase production, making it a more gentle alternative to typical tyrosinase inhibitors. It can be applied up to twice daily.


Azelaic acid: Inhibits tyrosinase and gently reduces pigmentation by targeting hyperactive melanocytes—cells that produce melanin. Azelaic acid is slightly more potent than niacinamide. It can be applied up to twice daily.

Hydroquinone: Directly inhibits tyrosinase and melanin synthesis. It can be used up to twice a day for 3-6 months as treatment for intense hyperpigmentation or melasma; to avoid irritation, it should not be used any longer, as it is highly potent.

Melanogenesis inhibitors are often confused with tyrosinase inhibitors, and although they yield similar results—reducing pigmentation—tyrosinase inhibitors are a subset of melanogenesis inhibitors, which differ in that they affect melanin synthesis as a whole rather than directly targeting tyrosinase. Alongside just targeting tyrosinase production, melanogenesis inhibitors also promote melanin degradation and target melanogenesis pathways, blocking melanin from transferring to keratinocytes.

Which inhibitor is better?

Although melanogenesis inhibitors target several steps in melanogenesis as opposed to directly targeting tyrosinase activity—as seen with tyrosinase inhibitors—that doesn’t necessarily mean that one is stronger or more effective than the other. In general, melanogenesis inhibitors are preferred for more gradual and long-term treatment for pigmentation, whereas tyrosinase inhibitors are stronger for more rapid pigmentation treatment and results. While both are effective in their own ways, combining these treatments with sun protection, exfoliants, and antioxidants ensures the best results for maintaining an even skin tone and treating hyperpigmentation.

Bibliography

Boissy, R. E. “Melanosome Transfer to and Translocation in the Keratinocyte.” Experimental Dermatology, vol. 7, no. 3, 1998, pp. 143-150. PubMed.

National Cancer Institute. “Melanocyte.” NCI Dictionary of Cancer Terms, n.d., [https://www.cancer.gov/publications/dictionaries/cancer-terms/def/melanocyte](https://www.cancer.gov/publications/dictionaries/cancer-terms/def/melanocyte#:~:text=(meh%2DLAN%2Doh%2D,contains%20the%20pigment%20called%20melanin.).

University of Rochester Medical Center. “What Is Skin Pigmentation?” Health Encyclopedia, n.d., https://www.urmc.rochester.edu/encyclopedia/content?contenttypeid=85&contentid=p01359.

Costin, G. E., and V. J. Hearing. “Human Skin Pigmentation: Melanocytes Modulate Skin Color in Response to Stress.” The FASEB Journal, vol. 21, no. 4, 2007, pp. 976-994. PMC.

Burkhart, C. G., and H. R. Burkhart. “Hydroquinone.” StatPearls, StatPearls Publishing, 2019. NCBI.

Pillaiyar, T., M. Manickam, and V. Namasivayam. “Skin Whitening Agents: Medicinal Chemistry Perspective of Tyrosinase Inhibitors.” Journal of Enzyme Inhibition and Medicinal Chemistry, vol. 32, no. 1, 2017, pp. 403-425. PMC.

Chang, T. S. “Natural Melanogenesis Inhibitors Acting Through the Down-Regulation of Tyrosinase Activity.” International Journal of Molecular Sciences, vol. 10, no. 6, 2009, pp. 2440-2475. PMC.

Sasaki, M., K. Hasegawa, and Y. Takahashi. “Recent Advances in Skin Lightening Agents: A Comprehensive Review.” Journal of Dermatological Science, vol. 110, no. 1, 2023, pp. 12-24. PMC.

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Debunked: Are Beef Tallow Moisturizers Better than Traditional Moisturizers?

Applying beef tallow – rendered fat of a cow – on the skin has an extensive historical background, dating back centuries ago, and has recently regained popularity on social media, particularly in the form of a moisturizer. Unlike traditional moisturizers that use glycerin or hyaluronic acid to moisturize the skin, beef tallow-based moisturizers use solely beef tallow and oftentimes, oil. I decided to look into beef tallow-based moisturizers to determine whether or not they are effective/safe, and how they compare to traditional moisturizers.


The skin benefits of beef tallow

Beef tallow moisturizers are promoted to deeply moisturize the skin and soothe acne, however, there’s insufficient research to support this claim. As stated by the NCBI, more research is still needed for beef tallow to be used as a cosmetic product for humans. The potential benefits of beef tallow for the skin are as follows: beef tallow’s rich content of fatty acids is assumed to protect the skin barrier from pollutants/inflammation, thus promoting a stronger lipid barrier. Fatty acids also help retain water/moisture in the skin, preventing a process known as transepidermal water loss, which occurs when water evaporates from the skin, drying it out. Beef tallow advocates claim that the fatty acids replicate the skin’s natural sebum, making it a “better”  alternative than traditional moisturizers.

The drawbacks of beef tallow

Despite the moisturizing benefits of fatty acids, the chemical construction of fatty acids makes them comedogenic and not fungal acne-safe; the rich content of fatty acids and the thick nature of beef tallow may feel thick and heavy on the skin. Moreover, beef tallow moisturizers typically contain oil – often olive oil – alongside beef tallow. This makes beef tallow moisturizers comedogenic, alongside feeling heavy and greasy, with a rating of 2 out of 5 on the comedogenic scale. For this reason, beef tallow moisturizers are not advised for individuals with acne-prone skin despite companies claiming that they’re suitable for all skin types. However, for individuals with dry skin or eczema, beef tallow moisturizers may be tolerable.

Comedogenic Scale


What do reviews say about beef tallow moisturizers?

Due to the lack of research regarding beef tallow for the skin, I looked into reviews from customers. One customer experimented with a beef tallow moisturizer for one week and found that the product was heavy and left a greasy finish. By day five, her face started breaking out – this likely alludes to the comedogenic formulations of beef tallow moisturizers. While this customer had a poor experience with beef tallow, it should be noted that her skin type may not be compatible with these thick moisturizers, as she doesn’t have super dry or eczema-prone skin. 

For some reason, social media has tried to label traditional moisturizers as having “dangerous chemicals,” scaring the public into buying these natural, beef tallow-based moisturizers. Although some customers may have a pleasant experience with these products, there’s still insufficient scientific evidence/research to back up using beef tallow for the skin, so it would be safe to use traditional moisturizers instead. The ingredients and nature of beef tallow moisturizers make them likely heavy and comedogenic for acne-prone individuals, as proven by customer reviews. As long as you invest in a quality product that doesn’t have parabens, sulfates, etc., traditional moisturizers are completely safe and effective.

Works Cited

“Does Tallow Clog Pores? The Comedogenic Scale Explained.” Sun & Moo, sunandmoo.com/blogs/sun-moo/does-tallow-clog-pores-the-comedogenic-scale-explained. Accessed 16 Jan. 2025.

Holender, Samantha. “So, People Are Slathering Their Faces In Beef Tallow Now?” Vogue, www.vogue.com/article/beef-tallow-for-skin. Accessed 16 Jan. 2025.

Medaris, Anna. “Beef Tallow for Skin: What Dermatologists Think About the Trend.” Edited by Ross Radusky. Everyday Health, 29 Feb. 2024, www.everydayhealth.com/healthy-skin/beef-tallow-for-skin-what-dermatologists-think-about-the-trend/#:~:text=The%20Takeaway,irritation%20rather%20than%20any%20benefits. Accessed 16 Jan. 2025.

“Relative irritancy of free fatty acids of different chain length.” National Library of Medicine, pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/233889/. Accessed 16 Jan. 2025.”Tallow, Rendered Animal Fat, and Its Biocompatibility With Skin: A Scoping Review.” National Library of Medicine, pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/38910727/. Accessed 16 Jan. 2025.