Recently, I developed a very frightening skin condition. Out of nowhere. It was these little bumps that ran from my feet all the way up to the palms of my hands.
So, as most people would do, I went online. Typing my symptoms into Google, I struggled to find images that matched my condition. Not only were the symptoms different (and honestly too confusing to compare), but a lot of the images showed light skin tones. I am Southeast asian (Indonesian), and so my skin is around a tan to golden color. The deeper the rabbit hole I went, I even started to question: was my skin somehow less important?
I’m writing this article to speak on this issue. Dermatology, “the branch of medicine concerned with the diagnosis and treatment of skin disorders,” should reflect ALL skin tones. And this doesn’t just affect me. I’m sure countless others out there with colored skin have felt or are feeling the way I am.
I’ve had a lot of time to reflect. Instead of feeling like darker skin like mine is the “problem,” I now question the system.
I started seeing my skin differently. Each little bump reminds me of the emotional turmoil I had to fight through. But it was bound to happen.
I’m open to talking with anyone else who has experienced something similar, personally feeling like their skin is “left out.” Hopefully this blog can be the space for just that.
As we may know, everyone’s skin produces more or less melanin. Skin of color tends to produce more melanin than lighter skin. But melanin isn’t the only thing that makes our skin unique. Beneath the surface of the skin, there’s actually a lot going on in the skin, and there are important differences in the skin’s barrier, specifically in our ceramides, which are a form of lipid. In this article, we’ll explore
1) What exactly are ceramides?
2) How do ceramide levels differ between darker and lighter skin?
3) And why does understanding these differences matter for choosing the right skincare products?
Let’s get into it!
Ceramides = lipids?
As we’ve briefly mentioned, ceramides are lipids. Lipids are fat molecules that help form the skin’s protective barrier and prevent moisture from escaping. Ceramides, in particular, make up more than half of this barrier, helping our skin stay strong, protected (against bacteria/irritants), and hydrated!
Differences in ceramide levels
Interestingly enough, ceramide levels differ across skin tones. In fact, a research study has shown notable differences across skin types, with Asian skin having the highest, Caucasians following, and African skin having the lowest levels.
Well, why is this? Scientists believe it’s because of variations in our enzyme activity and lipid production within the skin. This means that how well our skin can hold onto moisture depends a lot on our skin biology and genetics. So this might explain why many people with darker skin experience dryness or ashiness. It’s important to note that this doesn’t necessarily mean darker skin can’t be oily. Anyone can have oily skin. But these patients are more prone to dehydrated skin, meaning their skin may produce plenty of oil but still lack water underneath.
Why does this matter?
Understanding these differences in our ceramide levels and skin biology across skin tones is very important! It can help us make more informed skincare decisions. For darker skin, it’s more about repairing the barrier than layering on moisture. For lighter skin, keeping the barrier calm and hydrated helps prevent redness and irritation.
Also, choosing products that contain ceramides and fatty acids can further help rebuild your protective barrier and lock in hydration! Be sure to look out for these in the ingredients list of your products, especially your moisturizers.
Takeaway!
What have we learned? Well, every skin tone is different in its biology and ceramide levels, meaning that everyone has different/unique needs. By understanding how ceramides and skin biology differ, we can better care for our skin, from repairing the barrier to keeping it calm, hydrated, and healthy!
“Skin Pigmentation Results from Complex … the Physiopathological Mechanisms of Melanogenesis.” PubMed Central (PMC), U.S. National Library of Medicine, https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC12295737/.
Our skin is incredibly adaptive. Depending on your ethnicity and the environment you live in, the way your skin looks and functions can vary quite a bit from someone else’s. One part of the skin where this really shows is in the stratum corneum.
First, what exactly is the stratum corneum?
You might already know that skin has three main layers: the hypodermis, the dermis, and the epidermis. The epidermis is the outermost layer, and it’s made up of several sublayers. Sitting right at the top is the stratum corneum.
Even though it is the thinnest layer, it still has the main function of the skin to keep it healthy. It works as a protective barrier, helps with water retention, and protects the skin against various types of environmental stress. What is interesting is how the stratum corneum can be very different in terms of thickness and structure between people and even more so among various ethnic groups. These differences are not just skin-deep—they can impact things like how well your skin holds hydration and the extent to which it may become reactive to inflammation or skincare products.
Why thickness matters
The stratum corneum is not identical in everyone. Studies indicate that the skin of East Asians normally has a stratum corneum that is not only thicker but also more compact in comparison with the strata of people with lighter skin. While this sounds like a positive aspect, and it is to some extent (a stronger barrier may prevent irritants from entering), it also implies that the skin may lose its water very fast. This can make the skin dry, and the occurrence of eczema can increase. Besides, Asian skin is prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), after the event of a minor breakout or irritation, a dark spot is the aftermath that stays for a long time.
In the same manner, African skin usually has a stratum corneum that is thicker and more compact. This gives the skin extra protection from external traumas, but the mentioned benefits come with some of the same problems. The skin is capable of losing water very fast, which is one of the causes of dryness, and also the condition which many people know as “ashy”. Hyperpigmentation is yet another issue that occurs frequently, and the reason is that even a slight irritation may result in dark marks that are indistinguishable from the skin and are there long after the skin has recovered.
On the contrary, Caucasian skin, in general, has a relatively thin stratum corneum. In this case, skincare products can penetrate the skin quite easily, and the effects can be seen quickly, but at the same time, the skin is more susceptible to environmental stress. The thinner the barrier, the less protective it is, which is the main reason why lighter skin is more highly predisposed to sunburn and certain types of skin cancer.
Why it all matters for your skincare routine
Product penetration is slowed down by a thick barrier, while a thinner one may indicate that the skin is more sensitive. This is the reason why knowing the structure of your skin is very important in the correct ways of treating it.
Takeaway
Of course, no matter what skin type and shade you have, healthy skin starts with taking good care of your skin barrier. This means regular use of emollients, gentle exfoliation, and avoiding the use of harsh products that may be doing more damage than good. The stratum corneum is different from person to person, and understanding this explains why there is no such thing as one-size-fits-all skincare.
Rawlings, A. V. “Ethnic Skin Types: Are There Differences in Skin Structure and Function?” International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 28, no. 2, pp. 79–93. PubMed, https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18492142/.
