Introducing an exfoliating acid can result in a brighter, smoother skin complexion, but can be dangerous if done improperly. There are a variety of exfoliating acids that are tailored for each skin type, so here’s how to choose the right one:
Dry Skin
AHAs (alpha-hydroxy-acids) are a gentle, water-soluble exfoliant that is ideal for dry skin types. Both AHA’s and PHA’s are water-soluble exfoliants, but AHA’s are a bit smaller than PHA’s, allowing them to penetrate deeper into the skin, and thus exfoliate more effectively. Dry skin types should avoid BHA’s, because these exfoliants will penetrate too deep into the skin, extracting the skin’s much-needed sebum. I recommend using either mandelic acid or lactic acid instead of glycolic acid because of its deep penetration and risk of irritation.
Oily Skin
BHAs (beta-hydroxy-acids) are ideal for oily skin, as they are smaller, oil-soluble molecules, and thus can penetrate deeper into the skin. Not only will this treat open/large pores, but also help control sebum – unlike AHA’s and PHA’s. This makes BHA’s the optimal exfoliating acid for oily skin, but this group of acids is most likely to cause purging. If your oily skin can’t tolerate BHA’s, you can opt for glycolic acid, which is more gentle than something like salicylic acid since it is an AHA. It’s important to consider that AHA’s are not oil-soluble, meaning that they won’t help manage sebum, so you’ll likely need some other treatment as well.
Combination Skin
For combination skin, it’s best to avoid using a BHA for your entire face, as the dry parts of your face will likely flake because the BHA will penetrate too deep and extract too much moisture. To combat this issue, you can use an AHA/PHA – ideally PHA for sensitive skin – for the u-zone of the face, and a BHA for the oily t-zone. Alternatively, you can use an AHA/PHA for your entire face, incorporating niacinamide to control excess oil in the t-zone. Niacinamide is a vitamin that works to control excess sebum similar to a BHA, although it is less potent as it is not an exfoliating acid. Opt for niacinamide in the form of a serum, or infused in a moisturizer with at least 2% concentration. If you choose to use one exfoliating acid for dry-combination skin, I recommend the alpha-hydroxy-acid, lactic, as it is effective yet gentle. With the potency of this acid, it will effectively exfoliate the open pores/blackheads of your t-zone. While lactic acid is still an AHA, it is water-soluble and relatively large, meaning that it shouldn’t exacerbate the dry areas of your face. If your skin is insensitive, normal-combination, it may be able to tolerate glycolic acid without irritation.
Sensitive Skin
Whether you have dry, normal, combination, or oily skin, if your skin is also sensitive there isn’t a definitive answer to how you should exfoliate, since factors like the degree of skin sensitivity and sebum production come into play. In general, PHA’s are the safest option for sensitive skin, as these molecules are the largest of all exfoliating acids, making them safe for everyday use. PHA’s don’t penetrate the skin as deeply as BHA’s or AHA’s, so it often takes a lot longer for them to yield results. PHA’s are optimal for very sensitive skin types that can’t handle the penetration of AHA’s and BHA’s. However, a counterargument to this group of acids is that they aren’t oil-soluble, meaning they can’t manage sebum production. If you struggle with oily, sensitive skin, you can solve this issue by incorporating a low concentration of niacinamide into your routine. Some people with sensitive skin may be able to tolerate AHA’s/BHA’s, but as a general guideline to be safe, PHA’s are optimal for sensitive skin.
While exfoliating acids are not completely necessary in a solid skincare regimen, if you struggle with blackheads, texture, or hyperpigmentation, exfoliating can be the next step in reaching your skin goals.
Works Cited
“AHA and BHA Acids for the Skin: What’s the Difference?” Irvine Laser Center, www.irvinelasercenter.com/blog/aha-and-bha-acids-for-the-skin-whats-the-difference#:~:text=Solubility%3A%20AHA’s%20are%20water%20soluble,surface%20AND%20inside%20the%20pores. Accessed 7 Sept. 2024.
Best of The Ordinary | DOCTORLY Favorites. Produced by Muneeb Shah and Luke Maxfield.
“Unlocking the potential of niacinamide: What percentage is effective for skin health?” Curology, 31 Aug. 2023, curology.com/blog/niacinamide/. Accessed 7 Sept. 2024.