The concept of shampooing your hair is profoundly ambiguous across social media. In the Western world, many people believe in the “no-poo” theory, claiming that terminating the use of shampoo will eventually train the scalp to regulate sebum production, resulting in healthier hair/scalp. This trend promotes using only water on the scalp, or the use of natural ingredients like baking soda and apple cider vinegar to cleanse the scalp instead of complex, synthetic chemical shampoo formulations. Despite the negative connotation of the word “chemicals,” a quality shampoo is essential in maintaining a healthy scalp/hair, which could not be achieved from the no-shampoo method.
Can you actually train your scalp’s sebum production?
Sebum is an essential natural oil your scalp produces that works to moisturize the hair and scalp. However, over time this sebum will continue to build up if a shampoo with oil-soluble compounds like sulfates, ceramides, or stearyl and cetyl alcohols isn’t used. Consequently, using only water will not dissolve sebum buildup, which could lead to dandruff and hair loss due to clogged hair follicles. In all, there is no scientific evidence that supports the theory of training your scalp and hair; you need to use shampoo to get rid of excess sebum and buildup to promote a healthy scalp. If you have curly/coily hair that is prone to frizz, simply limit the frequency of washing your hair rather than terminating shampoo completely. Training the scalp and hair is a myth.
Can you replace shampoo?
Baking soda, apple cider vinegar, and co-washing are a few popular alternatives for shampoo; but are they effective enough?
Baking soda: Otherwise known as sodium bicarbonate, baking soda has a high pH level of 9. The scalp’s pH level is roughly 5.5, so using baking soda would likely cause irritation and damage to the hair cuticles. Shampoos, however, are typically formulated with a pH level between 3.5 – and 5.5, and gentle surfactants, making baking soda a poor alternative for shampoo.
Apple cider vinegar:
CH3COOH, or apple cider vinegar, contains 5% acetic acid that works to gently fight bacteria and buildup on the scalp. Apple cider vinegar’s mildly acidic formula with a pH level of 2-3 makes it a more gentle alternative to shampoo. But is it still effective enough? Sebum on the scalp is mildly acidic with a pH level of 4.5 – 6, meaning that apple cider vinegar alone isn’t potent enough to counteract and control excess sebum. This pH imbalance can cause scalp issues.
Co-washing:
Co-washing is the act of using a cleansing conditioner that is formulated to be massaged onto the scalp, simultaneously cleaning and moisturizing the hair/scalp This method is less stripping than shampoos, making it particularly useful for curly/coily hair because of their higher porosity and prone to breakage; straight and wavy hair may find that co-washing weighs down their hair strands.
Shampoo is necessary for healthy hair
Despite common misconception, shampoo isn’t bad for the hair as long as you’re using a quality, natural product that isn’t too drying. Shampoos are the safest and most effective way of cleansing the scalp and hair. Having healthy hair starts from the scalp, as the scalp gradually builds up sweat, sebum, and pollution that will start to clog the hair follicles. A scalp that isn’t sufficiently cleansed leads to inflammation and hair loss, whereas a healthy scalp can freely promote healthy hair growth.
Works Cited
“Hair and Scalp Build-Up? What Can Help?” Chagrin Valley Soap & Salve Company, www.chagrinvalleysoapandsalve.com/blogs/idas-soap-box-blog/hair-and-scalp-build-up-what-can-help. Accessed 30 Sept. 2024.
“I Tried Oil Training My Hair, Here’s What Happened.” L’Oreal Paris, www.lorealparisusa.com/beauty-magazine/hair-care/thin-hair/editor-tries-oil-training-hair. Accessed 27 Sept. 2024.
“Sebum Build-Up on Scalp + How to Deal with It.” Taliah Waajid, 30 Aug. 2022, naturalhair.org/blogs/news/sebum-build-up-on-scalp-how-to-deal-with-it?srsltid=AfmBOopQhlcfSzAVFw8a-vEP–r9quoOgv99DRhjeytTI9UDTWc-3tfq. Accessed 27 Sept. 2024.
“The Shampoo pH can Affect the Hair: Myth or Reality?” National Library of Medicine, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4158629/#:~:text=The%20scalp%20pH%20is%205.5,effect.%5B12%2C17%5D. Accessed 30 Sept. 2024.”The Ultimate Guide To Hair pH.” Hair Know How, www.hairknowhow.com/ultimate-haircare-ph-guide. Accessed 27 Sept. 2024.