What are retinoids?
Whether you’re looking to reduce skin texture or prevent premature aging, retinoids are powerful active ingredients that increase skin cell turnover, resulting in younger, clearer skin.These powerful actives work to heal acne, promote collagen production, and delay aging. However, many people are hesitant to start retinol, as their skin gets worse before it starts to improve. This is known as purging, which is a phase where the skin starts to breakout for the initial few weeks, adapting to the retinoid.
Although purging may seem intimidating, the proper skincare products can minimize the severity of the purging phase and dryness. Providing the skin with the proper hydration to compensate for the dryness is crucial when starting retinoids, so it’s important to choose hydrating products that work to repair/maintain the skin barrier.
Cleanser
When choosing a cleanser, avoid using BHA’s/exfoliating actives that could potentially overstrip the skin, such as salicylic acid and benzyl peroxide. Granted, BHA’s are effective in treating acne that may occur during the purging phase of retinoids; however, combining these two powerful ingredients may be irritating for the skin, especially if your skin tends to me more sensitive. If you don’t have sensitive skin and choose to implement BHA’s in your routine, use them alternatively with retinoids. In the morning, you can skip the cleanse, and continue with the rest of your routine. The AM cleanse will further irritate sensitive skin damage the skin barrier. When looking for a cleanser, look for ingredients that hydrate the skin, and help restore the skin barrier, such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and ceramides. These key ingredients work to compensate for the skin’s dryness, and actively help rebuild the skin barrier. I personally recommend to browse Korean cleansers, as they focus more on hydrating the skin, so they tend to be more gentle and effective than western products. The Roundlab Dokdo 1025 cleanser is a great option, as it has several soothing and hydrating properties that are safe for dry and sensitive skin. In general, search for gentle, hydrating cleansers that are sulfate-free and fragrance-free.
Serums
Serums are a great addition to your skincare routine, especially when starting retinoids. Serums will accentuate your skin’s hydration levels, and soothe the irritation caused by retinoids. Centella asiatica extract is a popular ingredient found in a lot of Korean skincare products, and can often be found in the form of a serum. Centella asiatica will help retain the moisture lost during retinol, and alleviate breakouts and burning sensations. Although serums may not be completely necessary if you’re using a quality moisturizer, their high concentrations of acids will enhance your skin’s hydration levels.
Moisturizers
Thick, creamy moisturizers are optimal for starting a retinoid, as the retinoid promotes peeling and irritation. Thicker consistencies tend to be more hydrating than gel-like moisturizers; however, avoid oil-based formulas, as they can clog pores and worsen breakouts. Instead, look for moisturizers that promote barrier-repair like ceramides, hydrating ingredients such as glycerin and hylauronic acid, and soothing ingredients like centella asiatica and aloe vera. Moisturizers with keywords like “soothing creams” are often excellent options, as they target the primary repercussions of retinoids.
Sunscreens
Since retinoids make the skin more susceptible to UV damage, sunscreen is a must. Consistent use of sunscreen will ensure the retinoid is able to function properly, and prevent further irritation. When looking for a sunscreen, aim for fragrance-free, moisturizing formulas that won’t be greasy after reapplication. This can be in a form of a sunstick, such as the Centella Sunstick.
Although maintaining healthy and hydrated skin during retinoids seems tedious, your skin will be healthy and glossy once the purging phase is over. Choosing quality, moisturizing products is crucial for compensating for dryness during the retinoid purge.
Bibliography
Works Cited
“Beta Hydroxy Acids.” U.S. Food & Drug Administration, 25 Feb. 2022, www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/beta-hydroxy-acids. Accessed 4 July 2024.
“Centella Asiatica: The Most Popular Skin Care Ingredient You’ve Never Heard of.” Cleveland Clinic, 9 June 2023, health.clevelandclinic.org/centella-asiatica-for-skin. Accessed 4 July 2024.
How to Use a Retinoid like a Dermatologist. Produced by Muneeb Shah and Luke Maxfield.
“Retinoids & Summer: Should I Skip My Retinol When the Sun’s Out?” Cambridge Laser Clinic, 30 July 2021, cambridgelaserclinic.com/retinoids-summer-should-i-skip-my-retinol-when-the-suns-out/#:~:text=Prolonged%20exposure%20to%20sunlight%20will,treatments%20at%20night%2C%20before%20bed. Accessed 4 July 2024.
Skincare Ingredients You CAN’T Mix?! | Doctorly Investigates. Produced by Muneeb Shah and Luke Maxfield.